20 juillet 2001 – Hama – Apamée – Alep |
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As said
yesterday, we start our way to the minibus station just after 8 am. On the
way, the driver of a delivery tricycle takes us on its platform with our
backpacks, what an adventure. We look like Ben Hur in the streets of Hama.
Choukrane ! Apamea :
The north part of the colonnade From Bab
Trablous station, we find a minibus for Al Suqelbiyeh and from this location
another minibus for Qalaat Al Moudiq (name of Apamea’s citadel). Without
taking a breakfast this morning, we buy some fruit juice, water and biscuits
before climbing the road that leads to the archeological site. At the remains
of the theater, on a dirt track, we meet a Syrian who wants to sell us some
antiquities. We decline his invitation for the moment but as he proposes us
to keep our backpacks during the visit of the site, we will talk about his
offer later. We are now lighter to continue the climbing. The entrance
of the site costs us SP 15 and immediately, we have the two parts of the
colonnade in front of us. The north part is the longest one and the most
interesting because it is continually restored under the patronage of Osmane
Aïdi, the owner of the hotels Cham Palace. At first sight, I am a little bit
disappointed by the landscape mainly composed of burned grass at this season.
Spring or winter can be more impressive. From the
site, we have a nice view on the citadel. Apamea :
The citadel The visit
consists in walking through the colonnade to the north gate while admiring
the remains of the town and the beautiful columns alongside the Cardo Maximus. Apamea :
restoration in progress Just
before the agora and in front of the Tycheion, they are the symbol of Apamea,
the cabled columns. During the whole visit of the site, I constantly have the
soundtrack of Gladiator in mind. Apamea :
cabled columns At the north
gate, I climb the vault of the gate to admire the fantastic view on the
colonnade. After this climbing, Khaled, the gatekeeper, invites us to drink
some tea under the tent. We start introducing each of us and welcome each
other in many languages: Welcome, Benvenido, Benvenuti, Bienvenus, even in
Japanese... Khaled while preparing the tea starts a conversation that will
last 2h. We speak about various subjects and we learn a little bit more on
his daily life, his family, and his work. This is when he explains us how
marriages are done in the region. As far he is concerned he married his wife
17 years ago, they have 8 children (4girls and 4 boys). He also tells us that
he owns a perimeter of 20,000 meters of lands where he cultivates cotton,
tomatoes, some fruit trees that enables the life of the whole family. His
work as a gatekeeper on the site is a part-time job but he knows exactly at
what level the excavations are. A Belgian archeologist conducts them. So it
was a nice talk and we made a great picture with Khaled as a souvenir. Apamea :
Massimo, Eugenia & Khaled We
finish the visit of the site and come back where we left our bags. The guy is
waiting for us with a friend to propose some antiquities maybe stolen in the
site, who knows. Massimo and Eugenia are very attracted by a little vase.
This is the beginning of the inspection of the object by professor Indiana
"Massimo" Jones to know the truth on it. I am very perplex but I
will realize when I come back in Damascus at the national museum that it
might be trueThe Italians also buy two other pieces. Apamea :
Professor Indiana ‘’Massimo’’ Jones At 4 pm, with
no more green banknotes, we find our way back to the village of Al Suqelbiyeh
where we would like to find a means of transportation to Aleppo in the north.
But the prices were too expensive in this village so we decide to come back
to Hama to take a direct bus to Aleppo. In Hama, a young Syrian tell us to
choose the Al Rayan bus company whose office is located just near the Cairo
hotel. We take advantage of the time left before the departure to see the
norias one more time, taste one of their most delicious sweets: halawat
al-jibné, rolls of semolina with soft white cheese inside, it was delightful. Finally we
leave Hama at 7:15 pm for a 2 hours journey. One more time driving in Syria
is amazing or even dangerous when you are seated on the first row to
perfectly see the drivers’ habits. Our driver was driving at around 120 km/h
whereas the speed limit is clearly indicated at a maximum of 90 for buses.
Driving is done in this country by all the time activating the horn to warn
other road users. During the night the lights replace this sytem. In the
morning we see tractors coming in front of us on our lanes (too few exits on
the highway, so it gains time and gasoline) but this time, at 120 km/h we
face a truck at a very low speed maybe 50 or 60 on the far left lane. I think
that our driver was as much frighten as we were !! Despite this eastern way
of driving I did not see any crash during my stay. At such a
speed we arrive before the schedule time and many taxi drivers were waiting
for the passengers. A Syrian guy offers to bring us in town for free at the
rear of his truck. That is how we arrive at the Tourist Hotel in downtown
Aleppo. At our arrival another guy try to persuade us to go to the Spring
flower hotel but Massimo and Eugenia had already booked a room at the Green
Star Hotel (Najem Akhdar). With nowhere to sleep, I follow them to see this
hotel, and to know if there will be room vacant for me. At this hotel there
is no roof available for sleeping but a single room at the last floor with a
big terrace and a magnificent view on the enlightened citadel. For SP 150 the
room is mine, abargain !! The owner is very friendly, he is always here to
help us and he speaks a good English. I will learn a lot of Arabic words with
him. On the terrace I meet two Australians who follow the road written in the
Lonely Planet : Cairo to Instanbul. They started their trip one month ago so
I ask them some advice on Jordan where I will be in 10 days or so. Massimo and
Eugenia join me to go outside and test the local cooking. We choose an
address common to our guidebooks: the Al Kindi in a street near the clock
tower. The bill is as always very light (SP100 per person). We stay a long
time talking on movies, travels… Finally we go back to the hotel. |
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D10 :
Aleppo – San Simeon – Aleppo D11 :
Aleppo – Qalaat Al Saadin – Tartous (1)
(2) D12 :
Tartous – Krak des chevaliers – Beirut (1) (2) D15 :
Damascus – Maaloula – Damascus D17 :
Damascus – Bosra – Damascus D18 :
Damascus – Amman – Dead Sea – Amman |
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Last update : January 2002
Contact : pindavid@hotmail.com