September 14, 2002 –
Merzouga – Tinerhir
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At 4:45am sharp, it is time to wake up. Jack can’t
go with us he is still ill so we are only 2 to leave Lhamada to walk through
the dunes to see the sunrise from the biggest one. As it is still at night,
the beginning is very surprising, we have only 2 lights and we only
distinguish the shape of the highest dune that will lead us. So it is for 30
to 45 min a move made of ups and downs. After the walk becomes harder as the
slope is steep. I am not sure I will reach the top as it is very difficult to
move in that sand. Satoshi decide to stop just at 30m from the top, so I
leave my bag next to him and I will reach the top only with my camera and I
will reach it on my hands and knees. We are now facing the rocky barrier in
front of us, this barrier materialize the border with Algeria. At te top I
will stay there for 1 hour amazed by the beauty of the place, the colors are
really wonderful. The wind runs on the sand, what a show… We are running on the way back as it is the best
solution as you will not fall due to the soft sand!! As we are back at the campground, the Moroccans are
angry against me because they are convinced that it was only my plan to go
there with the Japanese guy, it wasn’t.. They are only angry because Satoshi
didn’t buy the tour they proposed him late at night. Finally I leave the
place around 9am whereas Satoshi and Jack move to Erg Chebbi Auberge the one
I visited yesterday because they are pissed off the attitude of the Lhamada
staff. We are 15 in the minibus for Rissani as there are
only 11 seats. In Rissani, they thought of everything to leave the town but
this time, it is too much so I simply pay what I think what enough for the
trip in these conditions and I moved to the Grand Taxi station with 3 Irish
guys and 2 Spaniards. It will be very easy as we are 6 for the taxi, the
perfect number. The only negotiation is for the extra money for the luggage
but the driver is so happy he can work so he offered us the extra charge. 50DH and 2:30 later, we are in Tinerhir, we only
have to find a hotel to fully enjoy the area. In fact, the change is here, no
more houses in white or grey but everything has the color of the desert with
the ochre color. There is also a great palm grove right in the middle. Satoshi recommended Hotel El Houda for 25 DH a
night, so that will be my place. David and Maria, the 2 Spaniards I met in
Merzouga followed my choice. After a rest on the terrace of a café and a
quick lunch, we decide to reach the gorges du Todra at 12km from the village.
We take a Grand Taxi and on our way we can admire the beautiful landscape
made of mountains and the green valley between both sides. The gorge are really nice with high cliffs. The
place is a paradise for climbers who have many ways to reach the top right at
their vertical. The only problem is that they are building a bigger road in
the valley so with all the trucks and machines it is not so pleasant to visit
it at the moment. After testing the water of the river, we decide to walk
back to Tinehrir even if it 5:30pm. The night is there very quickly at
6:15-6:30 but hopefully a 4*4 rented by an English guy will stop to drive us
back to Tinerhir. It was too long just by walking!!! Tonight we have a great dinner on the main square
with a great Chaï (mint tea). At 9pm, after a good shower and a tough day it
is time to fall asleep. Main expenses of the day : Minibus Dunes – Rissani: 15 DH Grand Taxi Rissani – Tinerhir: 50 DH Hôtel El Houad: 25 DH for a single Grand Taxi Tinerhir – Gorges du Todra: 6 DH (one
way) Drinks (water, soft drinks, tea…) + evening meal: 50
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Other travels (Syria,
Jordan, Egypt, USA...) (Hotels, Transportation
timetables…) D1 :
Luxembourg – Paris – Casablanca D4 :
Meknes – Volubilis – Meknes D9 :
Tinehrir – Ouarzazate – Marrakesh D13 :
Refuge – 4167m –Tizi Ouanoums D14 :
Tizi Ouanoums – Amsouzert D16 :
Azib Likemt – Tacheddirt D17 :
Tacheddirt – Imlil – Marrakesh D19 :
Essaouira – El Jadida – Tangier D22 :
Chefchaouen – Casablanca D23 :
Casablanca – Paris – Luxembourg |
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Last update : January
2003
Contact : pindavid@hotmail.com